Durmitor 2008
Tento příspěvek se bude trochu vymykat běžným zvyklostem na tomto webu. Týká se mé autobusovo-stopovací cesty do hor, které se nacházejí na bosensko-černohorském pomezí, kterou jsem absolvoval letos v létě. Příspěvek sem vkládám spíše kvůli svým přátelům, kteří mne od mého návratu uhánějí o fotky, ovšem pokud se kdokoliv chce dozvědět o tom, jak lze za pár korun podniknout výlet do turismem příliš nezasažené oblasti s překrásnou přírodou, nechť neváhá a čte dál.
Den první
„Na cestě“
Dnes mě nemělo čekat nic víc, než jen pohodlná cesta směrem na Dubrovník, kterou jsem měl jako každý spořádaný turista předplacenou. Veškerá zábava měla začít až zítra, neboť co se bude dít na mé cestě od Dubrovníku dál, jsem ještě v tuto chvíli neměl ani nejmenší ponětí.
Autobus vyjel sice asi o hodinu později, ale vzhledem k tomu, že na Balkáně jsem byl připraven na mnohem horší zpoždění, nijak těžkou hlavu jsem si s tím nedělal. Jako jediný single na palubě jsem pro sebe vyfasoval samostatnou dvousedačku, což jsem kvitoval s povděkem a kritickým okem jsem se jal prohlížet si své spolucestující. Záhy jsem usoudil, že tady je asi hledání potenciálních partnerů pro lezení po Durmitorských vršcích zbytečné. Povětšinou se totiž jednalo o spokojené české rodinky či zamilované párečky, z jejichž tváří a zavazadel šlo číst jediné- pláž, slunce, šplouchání moře a možná nějaká ta játrová paštička.
Den druhý
„Nesnáším lidi, kteří berou drogy…hlavně celníky“
Je něco málo po osmé večerní, já rozbaluji svůj stan v táboře Mlinski potok u Šamšala Miny a pořád tomu ještě nemůžu uvěřit. Tenhle den byl tak plný šťastných náhod, že jsem začal svého anděla strážného podezírat z toho, že si u mne chce něco vyžehlit.
Ale popořádku- před desátou náš autobus dle plánu dorazil do Dubrovníku a já se začal shánět po dalším odvozu. Při mém dotazování na Durmitor se na mne paní na informacích dívala, jako bych chtěl letenku na Měsíc. Když jsem jí však sdělil, že ona místa se nacházejí v Černé Hoře, pookřála a řekla mi, že tam nejbližší (a v podstatě jediný) autobus odjíždí asi za půl hodiny. Výborně, alespoň něco. Autobus sice mířil jen do turistických letovisek po pobřeží, ale rozhodl jsem se jet do Budvy a dále se uvidí. Jízdenka byla nekřesťansky drahá (17 euro), navzdory obrázkům Panny Marie, které měli zbožní Chorvaté vyvěšeny na každé zdi, vnitřek autobusu nevyjímaje.
Do autobusu mě posadili vedel jakéhosi Fina, ale než jsem měl možnost o něm zjistit cokoliv víc, přišla pasová kontrola. Z té jsem měl trochu strach, Černohorci totiž před pár měsíci zavedli zákaz dovozu jakýchkoliv potravin do země a já měl ve své krosně nezanedbatelné zásoby sušeného jídla a konzerv. Kontrola na černohorské straně však proběhla bez problémů, horší to bylo na straně chorvatské. Chorvaté se zde Černohorcům evidentně mstí za dobytí Dubrovníku, protože cestujícím zcela nezastíraně dělají naschvály a obstrukce. Já i můj finský kolega jsme byli vytaženi z autobusu, donuceni vybalit do poslední ponožky svá zavazadla, zamračený chorvatský policista nad námi stojí jak u výslechu. Při mém vtipkování o tom, že mi zabalení toho zavazadla trvalo půl dne a tady mi to pak bude trvat stejně dlouho, na mě vrhne pohled, který jasně říká: „Houby půl dne, pět let navíc, kamaráde!“ Dál tedy raději mlčím a snad i díky tomu o půl hodiny později vycházíme ze strážnice svobodní a můžeme jet dál. Já trochu nadávám, ale můj finský spolusedící jen mávne rukou. „Měl jsi to vidět, když jsem minulej rok přecházel korejsko- vietnamskou hranici. Tam si mě taky vytáhli, ale autobus mi mezitím ujel i se zavazadly. Celej den jsem pak musel jít džunglí, než jsem ho dohnal…“ Ten blonďák u mě dost stoupnul v ceně, obvzláště když z něj vypadlo, že studuje politologii, stejně jako já.
Za chvíli řidič hlásí cosi chorvatsky, jeho řeč pak překládá nějaký místní pro nás do lámané angličtiny. Že prý musíme autobus v Kotoru (asi 10 km od cíle) odstavit a náhradní přijede za hodinu.
Jsou tedy asi dvě hodiny odpoledne a já se loučím s nadějí, že bych ještě dnes mohl spatřit hory. Pokud totiž přijedeme do Budvy takhle pozdě, jden těžko seženu autobus do Nikšiče, natož potom do hor, do vesničky Žabljak. Řidič zastavuje, vytahujeme svá zavazadla a já smutně vtipkuji o tom, že ani pořádný pivo, abychom si čekání nějak zkrátili, tu nemají. V tom řidič volá: „Rychle, sehnal jsem náhradu, poběžte!“ Vedle totiž právě odjíždí regionální autobus směr Budva, který dál pokračuje na- protírám si oči, jestli mě nešálí zrak- Nikšič! 
Rychle nasedáme, za chvíli jsme v Budvě, kde můj finský kamarád vysedá s vidinou horkého slunce a přecpaných černohorských pláží. Já pokračuji dál s poněkud jinými cíly. Chvíli to dokonce vypadá, že mě řidič nechá jet zadarmo, pak si ale vzpomene a vybírá ode mne směšných pár euro za projetí celé Černé Hory.
Při vysedání v Nikšiči mrkne na mé zavazadlo a ptá se, zda jedu do hor. Přisvědčím a řidič ukazuje na blízkou malou dodávku: „Zajdi za támhletím, ten tam jede“ To už snad ani nemůže být pravda…Ale kupodivu je a tak už dnes večeřím kus-kus a před očima mám následující výhled.
Den třetí
„Čertovy vršky“
Dnes jsem se rozhodl si udělat okruh po po vrcholech okolo tábora. Vyjádřeno čísly asi 10 km, z toho 3 km po hřebeni ve výšce cca 2500 m.n.m., hrubým odhadem procházka na šest hodin.
Vše vypadalo pěkně, když jsem okolo desáté vycházel z tábora, ovšem to jsem ještě netušil, že můj anděl strážný šel po včerejší dobře vykonané práci práci někam na pivo a mne pro dnešek přenechal kamarádovi z dětství, nějakému Satanovi. 
Nejdříve mě čekala asi hodinová cesta horským pralesem, spojená s přednesem lidových písní. Les byl totiž liduprázdný, takže jsem si zpíval proto, že věřím, že můj pěvecký výkon spolehlivě odežene medvědy. Poté následoval dost ostrý, ale krásný výstup na hřeben, po němž vedla úzká stezka mezi kameny, kde se z obou stran otevíral naprosto úchvatný pohled na hory a údolí mezi nimi, ostatně můžete sami posoudit z fotografií.
Problémy, které jsem předeslal, začaly až při sestupu. 
Pramen, který zde v jednou údolí měl být, nebyl. Při jeho hledání jsem se ocitl přímo uprostřed kamenopádu a už jsem se klouzal dolů. S rozedřenýma rukama a plný prachu jsem dopadl přímo na cestu, kterou jsem mezitím ztratil, takže svým způsobem jsem měl štěstí. Vydal jsem se dál po cestě a nevím proč, ale z cesty jsem sešel a musel se vracet zpět ještě několikrát. Nakonec jsem se ztratil definitivně a díky tomu jsem z lesa vyšel v jakési mě neznámé vesnici u Žabljaku. Už asi tři hodiny bez vody jsem v třicetistupňovém horku, odřený a od prachu, klopýtal po liduprázdné cestě a utěšoval se tím, že pokud umřu tady, alespoň mě snad někdo najde a zahrabe.
Sliboval jsem si, že pokud dojdu do Žabljaku, koupím si u té malé zelinářky nějaké ovoce a v obchodě vodu. V té chvíli už jsem ani nemohl polykat, nebylo totiž co. Do Žabljaku jsem nakonec došel, ale zelinářka na svém místě nebyla, asi ji vzal čert. Jdu tedy dál, do obchodu pro vodu. „Dnes zavřeno„. Zatnul jsem zuby a šel další dva kilometry do tábora a ujišťuji vás, že tak dobrou vodu, jako byla ta teplá břečka, kterou jsem vytáhl ze stanu, jsem ještě nikdy nepil.
Den čtvrtý
Po včerejšku jsem si trochu přispal, mimojiné také proto, že jsem po probuzení zjistil, že mi na stan ťukají dešťové kapky. Když přestalo pršet, zaběhl jsem dolů do vesnice pro nějaký proviant a jal se balit, Dnes jsem se totiž rozhodl vystoupat k Lokvickému katunu, vzdálenému asi 6 km a ležícímu v nadmořské výšce okolo 1800 m a tam přenocovat.
Cesta s patnáctikilovou zátěží na zádech nebyla žádný med, ale nakonec se mi přeci jen podařilo dorazit. Tuhle cestu ostatně dobře znám, takže tentokrát jsem se ztratit nemohl. Na místě už na mne čekal stanový tábor české výpravy, kterou jsem potkal minulého dne na vrcholku Malého medvěda.
Odpoledne sice přestalo pršet, ale ještě zesílil vítr, umocněný nadmořskou výškou. Stan jsem sice nějak postavil, ale když jsem si do něj lehnul ke krátkému odpočinku, některé poryvy větru jeho konstrukci doslova přimačkávaly k zemi (tedy vlastně na mne). Při představě noci, strávené v takovýchto podmínkách jsem raději kapituloval a přemístil jsem se do nedaleké malé boudy, určené ke skladování ovčích kůží. Při pohledu na zem a na nepořádek na ní mi bylo jasné, že noc strávím v blízkém kontaktu s mnoha různými zástupci živočišné říše, ale pořád lepší, než se probudit promoklý v polorozbořeném stanu.
Den pátý
„Houfem ovečky…“
Noc byla dle očekávání krušná, poryvy větru hvízdaly ve střeše chatrče a když náhodou na chvíli přestalo foukat, musel jsem odhánět neodbytnou myš, která si dělala zálusk na mé zásoby. Byl jsem tedy docela rád, když jsem mezi prkny chatrče zahlédl svítání.
Promrzlý jsem vylezl ven a uviděl to, co i ostatní, kteří se hrabali ze svých stanů. Údolím se valila mlha vrcholky hor nad námi zakrývaly mraky ze kterých drobně mrholilo. Celý obraz dokreslovalo cinkání zvonců ovcí a vůně kouře z ovčákovy chatrče. Pro mne osobně to byl idylický pohled, méně však pro členy výpravy, kterou čekal náročný výstup do hor. Jejich vedoucí však navzdory počasí zavelel sbalit stany a vyrazti vzhůru, což mělo za následek dezerci dobré poloviny výpravy, která se rozhodla raději pro ústup do údolí.
Já jsem dal sbohem oběma polovinám výpravy a opět jsem osaměl. Ne tedy tak docela, od své chatrče mi mávnul na pozdrav ovčák a protože zima byla opravdu vlezlá, šel jsem si uvařit do svého přístřešku čaj. Za chvíli přišel ovčák, prohodili jsme pár slov a on že jde dojit ovce. Okamžitě jsem si nazul boty a že jdu s ním, protože něco podobného jsem ještě nikdy neviděl. Když jsme však přišli k ohradě, zjistil jsem, že má lekce pastevectví nebude jenom teoretická. Ovčák mi podal svou hůl se slovy: „Běž do ohrady a nadháněj mi je„. Sám se posadil ke dvířkům, ovce, které vybíhaly ven chytal za zadní nohy a každou z nich během půl minuty brilantně podojil. I přesto nám však práce zabrala alespoň půl hodiny, jak mi ovčák později řekl, vlastní rovných 130 ovcí. Navíc část z nich byli berani, které samozřejmě dojit nebylo třeba, ale právě oni se stavěli k mé snaze o dirigování celého stáda dost kriticky a každou chvíli se snažili využít mé nepozornosti k tomu, aby mě trkli.
Musel na nás být dost zvláštní pohled. Větrem ošlehaný snědý ovčák, který ovce chytá za rohy a pobízí je hlasitými výkřiky „ush, ush, njeka, njeka!“ a vedle něj středoevropan, kterému ty potvory utíkají z jednoho konce ohrady na druhý a který se s nimi domlouvá výzvami „ale no tak, dámy, netvořte mi tu prosím hloučky…„
Nakonec jsme však měli podojeno a já vděčně přijal ovčákovo pozvání do jeho vytopené chatrče. Odmítl jsem s díky nabízenou cigaretu, která by dle zápachu, který vydávala, složila i zasloužilého kuřáka. Ovšem hrníček ovčího mléka jsem s lehkým chvěním v žaludku přijal. Můj hostitel mi z mého plecháčku nonšalantně vybral několik neurčitelných černých kousků, já se krátce pomodlil a napil. Mé první ovčí mléko v životě bylo výborně, lehce nasládlé a já jen doufal, že jeho požití pro mne zůstane bez větších následků.S úžasem a úctou jsem pak sledoval celý proces zpracování mléka před jeho odvezením dolů do vesnice na hřbetě krávy. V začouzeném katunu mi připomínala, že nejsem zpět ve středověku jen jediná věc- na prknech položený ovčákův mobil.
Odpoledne se počasí příliš nezlepšilo, ale já si přeci jen dodal odvahy na výstup do Ledové jeskyně. Měl jsem pocit, že bych si svou večeři měl alespoň trochu zasloužit a mimoto jsem věděl, že je to moje poslední příležitost jít výš do hor. Zítra už mne čeká jen sestup do tábora na Mlinskem potoku a pak pozvolný návrat na sever.
Večer jsem ulehl brzy, v očekávání zajímavé noci, ale náhle se otevřely dveře a v nich stály dvě postavy. Ukázalo se, že jde o pár mladých Francouzů, kteří si do hor odskočili jen tak nalehko při své cestě ze Sýrie.. Pozval jsem je dál, trochu jsem poklidil a nenápadně zakopl do rohu své včerejší ponožky, přeci jen hostím dámu, navíc Francouzku. Byl jsem docela rád, že mám společnost, zašel jsem s nimi nabrat vodu k prameni a nabídl, že uvařím čaj. Prohlásili, že i přesto, že je to takové „anglické“, rádi si dají. Chvíli jsme ještě rozprávěli, i z těhle dvou se totiž vyklubali politologové a pak jsme šli spát.
Počasí se bohužel oproti předpovědi nezlepšilo, spíše naopak. Následkem toho byla noc neklidná, několikrát jsme museli zajišťovat dveře chaty, které silný vítr rozrážel a také vyhánět myšky, jejichž cupkání se stžídavě ozývalo ze všech koutů místnosti.
….
Den sedmý
„Letecký útok černohorských civilních sil“
V dalších dnech jsem již prováděl jen menší výpravy a odpočíval. Na oslavu svých narozenin jsem si koupil místní pivo a toho večera sledoval hory ze svého stanu…
Úplně na začátku mé výpravy jsem onomu blonďatému Finovi povádal, že úplně nejlepší na těchto zemích je, že zde člověk nikdy neví, co ho potká v příští minutě. Jak hlubokou pravdu jsem měl, jsem zjistil, když mi v 18:04, právě při mé podveřerní siestě u piva značky Nikšičko, začal na stan přistávat vrtulník. Zmateně jsem vyběhl ze stanu, ale už jsem stihl jen sledovat, jek jej vítr od rotorů stroje boří a rozmetává.Podařilo se mu tak to, čeho nedosáhl ani orkán pod sedlem pod Bobotovým kukem. Naštvaně jsem běžel za Šamšalem pro vysvětlení, ale ten už mi zdálky rozesmátý volal, že přiletěl jeho kamarád. To už bylo trochu moc i na mne, ačkoliv jsem zvyklý a mám pro dětinskost balkánských povah vcelku pochopení. Věděl jsem však, že nadávat nemá smysl, takže jsem pospravil stan a šel se raději odreagovat fotografováním. Když jsem se vrátil, stan zůstal kupodivu po odletu vrtulníku již nepoškozen.
Den osmý
„Kouzelná chorvatská stařenka a neméně kouzelný Dubrovník“
Dnes jsem se naposledy při vstávání pokochal pohledem na vršky Durmitoru, posnídal jsem polévku s čajem ve sklenici od okurek (to máte tak, když si na výpravu nevezmete žádnou ženu, pak některé podřadnější věci, jako je hrnek, zapomenete přibalit) a ve studené vodě se pokusil si vyprat ponožky na cestu (poslední čisté mi totiž při včerejším leteckém útoku uletěly kamsi k horám a už je nikdo nikdy neviděl)
Potom jsem zaplatil Šamšalovi za ubytování (celých 12 euro) a vyrazil na autobus. Původně jsem uvažoval o tom, že bych mohl vyrazit i o den později, ale ale nevěděl jsem, jaká bude na cestě situace a došel jsem k závěru, že při stavu místní hromadné dopravy by takovýto krok byl vysloveně pokoušením mého již tak dost zkoušeného anděla strážného.
Cesta do Podgorici proběhla v pořádku, tam jsem opět šťastnou náhodou chytil přímý spoj do Dubrovníku. Ve tři jsme vyjížděli a já doufal, že budeme v cíli nejpozději do sedmi a já tak budu moct sehnat ještě nějaké ubytování, nejlépe v nějakém kempu. Mé plány však opět zkřížila chorvatská hranice. Obrovská fronta, pak půl hodiny bezdůvodné odstavení autobusu. Když k nám konečně přišel celník, musel tentokrát svá zavazadla vytahovat celý autobus.
Výsledek byl takový, že jsem do Dubrovníku dorazil někdy po desáté, s vyhlídkou na noc strávenou na nádraží.
Tak by to asi také opravdu dopadlo, nebýt toho, že se mi z ničeho nic zjevila asi osmdesátiletá stařenka a nabídla mi ubytování. Byly v podstatě dvě možnosti- buď je ta babička kouzelná anebo patří k proslulému chorvatskému gangu důchodců, kteří po nocích okrádají nebohé pocestné. Proti vší logice jsem se rozhodl uvěřit první variantě a dobře jsem udělal, protože jsem se tu noc poprvé po dlouhé době dobře vyspal v měkké posteli za usmlouvaných 15 euro.
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